Have Baby, Will Travel: Traversing the Arabian, Sahel and Kalahari with Fati

With all of the social, cultural and emotional benefits of international travel and globetrotting, we decided to start early with our little baby. We recently relocated to Botswana for work and she will ring in her one year birthday in Botswana's capital city, Gaborone.  Fati is still very young, so this seemed like the opportune time to immerse her in the world, literally! Her age makes her the perfect travel companion. She's alert and semi-mobile, but still extremely attached and easily comforted by mommy. At this point, I am still her primary source of food and soothing. When traveling, nursing is the cure-all for the bad food, delays, missed connections and general stress of long-haul travel.

Dakar, Senegal

Since we're living abroad, we'll likely be doing a lot of traveling as Fati grows into her toddler years and beyond. So, we'll definitely be expanding the repertoire and toolbox of travel must haves and dos and don'ts. For now, I've put together a short list of helpful tips that have eased our first year of travel with Fati, which took her across three desert regions - the Arabian, the Sahel and the Kalahari.  She has been blessed to experience the multiculturalism, understated luxury and charm of Bahrain; the energetic beauty, hospitality and fluidity of her Senegal; and Botswana's laid-back and ancient culture.

And, this is just her international travel.  She's ridden buses, trains and cars to travel to New York, Washington, DC, New Jersey and Virginia. While these travel escapades occurred at different periods of her growth and development - her first "road trip"was at 6 weeks, first flight at 3 months and most recent flight at 10 months - her demeanor during each trip was all Fati, all of the time.  Simply put, she was a ball of curiosity and contained energy who was able to go with the flow and weather our tough travel mishaps.

When we ventured on the 24+ hour trip to Bahrain that included a 2-hour drive to New York, a night in a motel near JFK airport due to missing our flight, a long layover at London's Heathrow Airport and a stay in the amazingly small, but comfortable airport Yotel, Fati was still at the age where she slept  A LOT and could do it anywhere!  She slept in the stroller while we walked around the airport and argued with airline personnel about being charged for a missed flight.  She slept while I held her in one of the two carriers I bought along for the trip.  And, most refreshingly, she slept peacefully for most of our flights - either in my arms or in the bassinet provided by the airline.  I would nurse her during take-off and she was out like a light! But when she was up, she was busy looking, exploring and trying to engage airline staff and fellow travelers.  That's my Fati!

Museum Depiction in Bahrain

On that trip I learned that you can take your stroller and the car seat attachment up to the gate and have it checked at no cost.  I used that stroller to cart all my extra carry-ons and supplies.  You may even be allowed to take the car seat on the flight with you if there is an empty seat available. That way, baby can have her very own seat on the plane, even if you just paid to have her on your lap!  When we arrived in Bahrain, Fati easily adapted to the weather and air, adjusted her sleep and feeding routine and seemed like a native of the Kingdom of Bahrain.  She was comfortable spending time with my former colleagues, neighbors and the local merchants and fit into the cosmopolitan atmosphere of the tiny Gulf kingdom.  At one point, she developed a small skin rash and congestion, but a trip to the doctor eased our nerves and she was fine within a week of the first symptoms.

Fast forward a few months to when Fati was 10 months, and a relatively big girl, headed to Senegal, her father's homeland.  She actually had her own seat and 2-piece luggage allowance this time.  But she did very little sleeping. She was much more alert and active.  I'm not exaggerating when I say she charmed the socks off of almost everyone on the flight.  The flight attendants wanted to  pick her up and she made her rounds with the passengers as well.  Once we arrived, she effortlessly soaked up the sunshine and got in her rest and relaxation as we spent time on the Atlantic Ocean coast of Dakar.  She was totally comfortable in the hustle and bustle of the city - from random taxi rides to meeting and being held by tons of her baba's friends.  I think I may have heard her speaking a little Pulaar and Wolof!. She even visited the historical, cultural and ancestral landmark of Goree Island.

Onward to Botswana. The local folk here say that Fati is a Motswana (someone from Botswana).  She's already picked up some of the local colloquialisms, particularly the phrase "eyyy".  She loves watching the monkeys play in the front and back yard and has befriended a number of good people here.  When can hardly go anywhere without people asking, "Where is Fati?".  How is that for making an impression?

Manama, Bahrain

Okay, so now to some practicalities.  Here's a bit of what helped us prepare for and fairly easily execute our international travel with baby Fati on board.

First Step - Passport for Baby:  Even if you don't know exactly when you'll be headed overseas with your little one, it can't hurt to get the passport now so that will be one less worry once you have your itinerary confirmed.  It's really quite simple.  You can apply at a local post office, or if you need it expedited go to your regional passport office.  Just requires the baby's birth certificate, application form, passport photo, parents' I.D., fee and both parents' permission for the child to obtain a passport (both can be present at the time of application or the non-present parent can sign and notarize a form giving permission).  All the information you need is on the State Department Passports website.

A Carrier for Boarding and De-planing:  Plain and simple, carriers and other organizers helped me to lug my carry-on bags and baby as effortlessly as possible given the circumstances.  That meant that Fati was snug, and often sleeping, as we waited in lines to get to the plane and to our sets.  See my review of baby carriers to get a sense of how they may help you with your travel plans.

Beautiful Art on Goree Island, Senegal 

Background Research - TSA and Airline: Of course, you'll find out the visa and vaccination requirements for the country (s) you're visiting.  But with a baby, it's equally important to become knowledgeable about TSA rules regarding baby's baggage and milk or formula allowances.  Usually, you are allowed as much breast milk as necessary, although the amount of liquid formula you can carry on may be limited.  Check TSA regulations and call the airline for more information. Because we had such a long trip to Bahrain and I needed some reserve for the first few days there, I took several bottles of pumped milk along with little ice packs to keep it cool.  I had not problems at any of the TSA or international checkpoints.

Also, when buying your ticket online, be sure to call the airline so they can calculate the tax you will have to pay for your baby.  Even if you don't actually purchase a seat, you'll have to pay taxes.   You don't want to be surprised at the airport before departing with a $200 or more fee that you didn't know you would have to pay.  At that time you should also request a bassinet if you need one.  At least the request will be in the system - not that every plane has them or every airline will honor the request.  Finally, keep in mind that you have to be very patient when checking in with your baby and dealing with airline staff.  I've found that there are often glitches in the system, whether you actually purchase a ticket for your baby or have him on your lap, such that the agent may have to play around with the computer or make a few phone calls in order to have your baby "ticketed"or have her boarding pass issued.  Contrary to what many people think, you can't just walk through security and onto the plane with a small baby without having a boarding pass and I.D. (birth certificate for most in-country travel and passport for international travel).  When checking in, be sure to ask for the bulkhead row seats that will give you more room to maneuver with all your baby gear and also the only row where the bassinet can be attached.

Proper Gear for Your Destination: For us, Fati's most important travel accessories have been her Expedition Jogger Stroller which smoothly handles any terrain, the right pampers to help prevent diaper blow-outs and leaks, and, as mentioned earlier, carriers for all the walking we do.  Another indispensable supply is my Medela double electric breast pump.  It's definitely a lifesaver for the globetrotting, nursing mom and baby.  All the other little supplies - wipes,lotion, hair supplies, etc. - are usually very easy to find in most locations around the world.  Also, I always keep a little acetaminophine or ibuprofen and pedialyte in the diaper bag just in case, as well as several changes of clothes and plastic bags for any bathroom accidents..

Preparing for Medical Needs:  Hopefully you wont need it, but it's always a good idea to get information about how to see a doctor on the ground.  Fati has seen a doctor in both Bahrain and Botswana for minor skin, allergy and fever issues.  She didn't have to see one in Senegal.  Before we left we had a consultation with a travel medicine clinic.  This was to let us know what we need to be aware of in each region, but also which vaccinations were recommended and required for travel to certain regions.  She needed the Yellow Fever vaccine to travel to Botswana from Senegal.  Before allowing us to board the airline official actually checked all of our Yellow Cards, including Fati's. That was a first, because I rarely ever had that card checked by any airport official.

Social Connections:  Travel is definitely better when you can meaningfully connect with others on your journey.  Meeting other traveling and ex-pat parents has exposed Fati to a new group of friendly faces and has given us the support we need to settle in and find out about child-friendly activities and attractions.
Our best assets have been open hearts and minds.  We've observed and accepted many local parenting practices, but are also confident in our own child-rearing philosophy and approach.  This mixture of groundedness and flexibility has made international travel and living with Fati the best!

Botswana National Museum